BOOK REVIEW: Walking Isabella

Book Details:

Book Title: Waking Isabella—because beauty can't sleep forever by Melissa Muldoon
Category:  Adult Fiction (18+), 271 pages
Genre:  Historical Fiction, General Fiction
Publisher:  Matta Press
Release date:  November 2018
Format available for review:  ebook (mobi for Kindle, epub), and audiobook (audible download
Tour dates:  Feb 1 to Feb 26, 2021
Content Rating: PG-13 + M. includes mature themes (suicide, adultery, sexual relations, murder)

 

 

Book Description:

Waking Isabella is a story about uncovering hidden beauty that, over time, has been lost, erased, or suppressed. It also weaves together several love stories as well as a few mysteries.

Nora, an assistant researcher, is a catalyst for resolving the puzzle of a painting that has been missing for decades. Set in Arezzo, a small Tuscan town, the plot unfolds against the backdrop of the city’s antique trade and the fanfare and pageantry of its medieval jousting festival.

While filming a documentary about Isabella de’ Medici—the Renaissance princess who was murdered by her husband—Nora begins to connect with the lives of two remarkable women from the past. Unraveling the stories of Isabella, the daughter of a fifteenth-century Tuscan duke, and Margherita, a young girl trying to survive the war in Nazi-occupied Italy, Nora begins to question the choices that have shaped her own life up to this point. As she does, hidden beauty is awakened deep inside of her, and she discovers the keys to her creativity and happiness. It is a story of love and deceit, forgeries and masterpieces—all held together by the allure and intrigue of a beautiful Tuscan ghost.

My Thoughts:

From the coast of California to the charm of Tuscany, Waking Isabella whisks readers into a web of intrigue, history and soul searching in a stunning setting. Nora is in a personal and professional crisis as her marriage ends and her career is at crossroads. So when an old friend pops up on social media, Nora takes a leap of faith and puts in motion a journey that ultimately connects her with a Medici princess. In a mix of old and new, past and present, Waking Isabella keeps a quick pace as it weaves together the history of the murder of a Isabella and the present day story of a modern woman searching for who she is and how she wants to spend her life. The story is layered with rich details about Renaissance Italy and gorgeous descriptions of the paintings, jewelry and traditions that capture the opulence of the time. While the contemporary scenes relay the pace, flavors and lifestyle of today's Italian villages. I enjoyed learning about this little-known piece of history and experiencing the dramatic story of Isabella through the eyes of a rebellious young woman. I also appreciated that the story was appropriately complex without easy answers to Nora's big questions. If you're lucky enough to find yourself in Tuscany in the near future, this is a great book to bring along. 

Buy the Book:
Amazon ~ Audible
B&N ~  Bookshop ~ BookBub
Autographed from Author
Add to Goodreads 

Meet the Author:

Melissa Muldoon is the author of four novels set in Italy: Dreaming Sophia, Waking Isabella, Eternally Artemisia, and The Secret Life of Sofonisba Anguissola. All four books tell the stories of women and their journeys of self-discovery to find love, uncover hidden truths, and follow their destinies to shape a better future for themselves.

Melissa is also the author of the Studentessa Matta website, where she promotes the study of Italian language and culture through her dual-language blog written in Italian and English (studentessamatta.com). Studentessa Matta means the “crazy linguist” and has grown to include a podcast, Tutti Matti per l’Italiano and the Studentessa Matta, YouTube channel, Facebook page and Instagram feed. Melissa also created Matta Italian Language Immersion Programs, which she co-leads with Italian schools in Italy to learn Italian in Italy.

Through her website, she also offers the opportunities to live and study in Italy through Homestay programs. Melissa has a B.A. in fine arts, art history, and European history from Knox College, a liberal arts college in Galesburg, Illinois, as well as a master’s degree in art history from the University of Illinois at Champaign-Urbana. She has also studied painting and art history in Florence. She is an artist, designer, and illustrated the cover art for all four of her books. Melissa is the managing director of Matta Press

Connect with the author:  Website  ~ Facebook ~ Twitter ~Instagram ~ Pinterest ~ Goodreads

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Tour Schedule:

Feb 1 - The Pen and Muse Book Reviews - spotlight of all 3 books / giveaway
Feb 1 - Sefina Hawke's Books - spotlight of all 3 books
Feb 2 - Working Mommy Journal - review of Sofonisba / giveaway
Feb 2 - Books for Books - book spotlight / giveaway
Feb 3 - Working Mommy Journal - review of Isabella / giveaway
Feb 3 - Books for Books - review of Isabella
Feb 4 - I'm All About Books - book spotlight / giveaway
Feb 5 - History from a Woman’s Perspective - review of Sofonisba 
Feb 8 - Olio by Marilyn - review of Sofonisba / author interview / giveaway
Feb 8 - Literary Flits - review of Sofonisba / giveaway
Feb 9 - History from a Woman’s Perspective - review of Artemisia
Feb 10 - Sadie's Spotlight - book spotlight / giveaway
Feb 10 - Gwendalyn’s Books - review of Sofonisba / author interview / giveaway
Feb 11 - History from a Woman’s Perspective - review of Isabella
Feb 11 - Books for Books - review of Artemisia
Feb 12 - Book Corner News and Reviews - book spotlight / giveaway
Feb 12 - Stephanie Jane - spotlight of all 3 books / giveaway
Feb 15 - Elizabeth McKenna - Author Blog - book spotlight / giveaway
Feb 16 - Deborah-Zenha Adams - book spotlight / guest post / giveaway
Feb 16 - Rockin' Book Reviews - review of Sofonisba / guest post / giveaway
Feb 17 - Gwendalyn’s Books - review of Isabella
Feb 17 - Locks, Hooks and Books - review of Sofonisba / giveaway
Feb 17 - Splashes of Joy - spotlight of all 3 books / author interview / giveaway
Feb 18 - Locks, Hooks and Books - review of Isabella / giveaway
Feb 18 - Books and Zebras @jypsylynn - review of Sofonisba / giveaway
Feb 19 - Locks, Hooks and Books - review of Artemisia / giveaway
Feb 19 - 30-something Travel - review of Sofonisba / guest post / giveaway
Feb 19 - Books Lattes & Tiaras - review of Sofonisba
Feb 22 - Books Lattes & Tiaras - review of Isabella
Feb 22 - Rockin' Book Reviews - review of Isabella / giveaway
Feb 23 - Rockin' Book Reviews - review of Artemisia / giveaway
Feb 23 - Jazzy Book Reviews - spotlight of all 3 books / giveaway
Feb 24 - Library of Clean Reads - review of Sofonisba / giveaway
Feb 25 - Olio by Marilyn - review of Artemisia / giveaway
Feb 26 - High Society Book Club & Reviews - review of Sofonisba + spotlight previous books / guest post / giveaway
Feb 26 - 30-something Travel - review of Isabella / giveaway
Feb 26 - Books Lattes & Tiaras - review of Artemisia

Enter the Giveaway: Click the link below for a chance to WIN a print copy of THE SECRET LIFE OF SOFONISBA ANGUISSOLA plus the audiobook edition. Good luck! Enter below. Rafflecopter giveaway

 

Blog Tour + Giveaway - Made in Italy

Title: Made in Italy | Author: Laura Morelli | Genre: Adult Non-fiction Publisher: Authentic Arts Publishing | Release date: January 2019

Description: Richly painted maiolica ceramics from Tuscany. Supple Florentine leather. The cameos of Naples and the Amalfi Coast. Parmigiano-Reggiano, the king of cheeses. Jaw-dropping glass from the island of Murano.

Made in Italy takes you on a complete tour of the dazzling artisanal legacy of Italy, uncovering off-the-beaten-path destinations and one-of-a-kind, hidden workshops where everything from leather bags to gilded frames are turned out completely by hand, piece by piece.

This book includes instructions for getting a free copy of the companion guide, Artisans of Italy, with complete, continually updated listings of Laura's personally recommended shops and artisans across Italy.

Laura Morelli, art historian and trusted guide in the world of cultural travel and authentic shopping, leads you behind the tourist traps to discover some of Italy's most traditional arts.

Laura holds a Ph.D. in art history from Yale University and shares how, what, and where to buy; hints on recognizing quality and authenticity; and tips for bringing home the artisanal treasures of Italy in your suitcase.

Buy the Book:

Amazon ~ Barnes & Noble ~ Author's Website

Add to Goodreads

About the Author

LAURA MORELLI holds a Ph.D. in art history from Yale University, has taught college students in the U.S. and in Italy, and currently produces art history lessons for TED-Ed. She authored a column for National Geographic Traveler called “The Genuine Article” and has contributed pieces about art and authentic travel to CNN Radio, The Frommers Travel Show, and in USA TODAY, Departures, and other media.

Laura is the author of the Authentic Arts guidebook series that includes the popular book Made in Italy. Her fiction brings the stories of art history to life. Her debut novel, The Gondola Maker, won an IPPY for Best Historical Fiction and a Benjamin Franklin Award.

Connect with the Author: Website ~ Twitter ~ Facebook ~ Instagram

Enter the Giveaway! One winner will receive a signed paperback copy of Made in Italy by Laura Morelli. Open in the U.S. and Canada only. Ends March 15, 2019. Click HERE to enter the Rafflecopter giveaway. 

Book Review: All the Way to Italy

If this image looks familiar, it's because I posted a Spotlight of this book last week. But today I'm posting my review of this fabulous book about family, loss and finding out who you really are.

Title: All the Way to Italy: A modern tale of homecoming through generations past | Author: Flavia Brunetti | Genre: Adult Fiction/YA | Publisher: Ali Ribelli Edizioni | Release date: April 21, 2018

My Thoughts: All the Way to Italy is quite simply a stunning book. Brunetti's writing is so beautiful that readers are pulled into Little's world spanning continents and eras with gorgeous prose and evocative scenery. She tugged at my heart strings when Little returned to Rome after her father's death and left me with tightened jaws after tense encounters with her estranged half-sister. She simply has a command of language in both English and the scattering of Italian she uses in just the right places that is absolutely absorbing.

My favorite part was reading about two cities I love -- San Francisco and Rome. Probably because I lived in San Fran for 10 years, it was wonderful to be there again through the eyes of a 20-something woman figuring out who she is. But Rome was wonderful too. From cobbled streets and Old World smells to crowded trams and determined shoppers, I was transported into the wonderful city that Brunetti describes as somehow both old and new at the same time. 

The characters are also enchanting. Her warm, but mysterious, father holds a presence throughout the story even though it takes place after his death. Her aunt, the woman who raised her, is a typically stern but respected older woman who has secrets of her own. The untraditional family structure is a bit confusing to understand at first, but is a refreshingly unique premise for a family saga.

I'm a new fan of this talented writer and absolutely adore All the Way to Italy. It will be in my beach bag when I head to Italy this summer and I'd recommend it to visitors to Italy and armchair travelers alike.  

To follow the tour and read all the reviews, visit Flavia Brunetti's page on Italy Book Tours.

Buy the Book:

Amazon ~ Barnes and Noble ~ iTunes ~ Kobo

Add to Goodreads

Connect with the author: Website ~ Blog on Rome ~ Twitter ~ Facebook ~ Instagram

And don't forget...

Enter the Giveaway! Two winners will get an ebook copy of All the Way to Italy plus a $20 Amazon.com gift card and one winner will get an ebook copy of All the Way to Italy plus a $30 Amazon.com GC. Open internationally to wherever Amazon delivers, 3 winners total. Ends May 26, 2018. Click HERE to enter the Rafflecopter giveaway. 

Blog Tour + Review + Giveaway - Sass, Smarts and Stilettos

Title: Sass, Smarts, and Stilettos: How Italian Women Mae the Ordinary Extraordinary Author: Gariella Contestabile | Category: Women's Fiction | Genre: Travel, Arts, Fashion, Self-Help | Publisher: Sumisura Publications | Release date: November 2017

Description: Ah, that inimitable Italian style. It’s embedded in an Italian woman’s DNA. Fashion doesn’t define her. She defines herself. She knows an extraordinary life is not about status, money, or achievement. The only mastery it requires is one her heritage has given her, the irrepressible passion to make art of life itself.

Ask an Italian woman where she gets her sense of style and she will tell you it’s not about labels. It’s tethered to humble roots; humanity, community, conscious consumerism, and a profound appreciation for art in all its forms.

Sass, Smarts and Stilettos takes the reader on a journey from the humble hill towns of Abruzzo to the revered fashion capitals of Milan and Rome, into the artisan workshops of Florence, and the humanistic business practices of Luisa Spagnoli, Brunello Cuccinelli, and Alberta Ferretti, from the emergence of Italy’s fashion industry after WWII, to slow food and sustainable fashion initiatives taking root around the world.

Life lessons echo in the words of the author’s mother and grandmother, in the voices of Italian film divas, designers, tastemakers, writers, and artisans across generations, from the first Sala Bianca in Florence to the game-changing design ethic of Franca Sozzani, Miuccia Prada, and Donatella Versace.

Learn how to live fully within your own philosophy of living. Say goodbye to mindless consumerism, emotional clutter, and others’ expectations. Create a personal style that fits like a custom blazer by Ferrè and enchants like the colors of a Sicilian sunset. Then go on to craft an extraordinary and empowering life made-to-measure for you alone.

To read reviews, please visit Gabriella Contestabile's page on Italy Book Tours.

My Thoughts: Every so often a book comes along at just the right time with just the right message. As an Italian-American who just moved overseas (again), I was questioning the transient lifestyle my husband and I have created especially now that it affects our young son. Enter Sass, Smarts & Stilettos. Reading a book written by someone who experienced multiple international relocations as a child was uncanny as I struggle to figure out if/where we should settle down. Beyond that immediate connection, it spoke of home to me. Even though I grew up in America, so many of the traditions, foods and feelings expressed throughout this enchanting book were immediately familiar. I know, as I've always known, that the Italian in me is what makes me who I am. I recently met a lovely new (Italian) friend in London (my current home) and was struck by how easy it was to get along with her. Her warmth and zest for life was upfront and obvious from the moment she crossed the room to introduce herself. For me this book made me remember who I am. It also made me want to immediately take inventory of my closet and toss everything that doesn't make me feel good. I even took the author's advice and tried on my outfits for a weekend away -- which saved me from bringing too much and from bringing something that I didn't realize was stained beyond saving. Speaking of the author, she writes like we are her best friends or maybe her sisters as she passes on little lessons she's learned along the way. She's the smart, stylish friend you've always wanted or wanted to be. There is so much thoughtful, smart and compelling information wrapped into charming vignettes about life, love, food, fashion, family, art and history -- the Italian way. If you have even a drop of Italian in you (or know someone who does), you'll love Sass, Smarts & Stilettos. And if you don't, you'll enjoy a glimpse into the wonderful way that Italians live. Hmm, maybe we should make one more move...to Italy.

Buy the Book:

Amazon ~ Barnes & Noble ~ Chapters Indigo ~ Kobo

Add to Goodreads

About the Author:

Gabriella Contestabile is the author of the novel, The Artisan’s Star, and owner of Su Misura (Made to Measure) Journeys; a boutique travel concept for the female traveler who relishes off-the-beaten-track adventures that celebrate the Italian way of life.

The book/travel initiative has its roots in her pre-writer life as a foreign language teacher, later as Executive Director and Vice President of International Training in a number of global companies (including Estee Lauder, Shiseido, and Prada Beauty) where she would create immersive and unconventional learning experiences in unique settings around the world.

One of her favorite pastimes, wherever she is in the world, is to scout out the best, and most ‘Italian’ espresso in the hood. It requires multiple tastings, but that’s the idea. Gabriella was born in Italy, and raised in Ottawa and New York City, where she currently lives with her husband, her mother, and a furry Shih Tzu named Oreo.

Connect with the Author: Website ~ Twitter ~ Facebook ~ Instagram ~ LinkedIn

Enter the Giveaway! Win a $15 Amazon gift card (open international / 2 winners total). Ends May 19, 2018. Click HERE to enter the Rafflecopter giveaway. Buona fortuna!

All the Way to Italy - Blog Tour + Giveaway!

Title: All the Way to Italy: A modern tale of homecoming through generations past | Author: Flavia Brunetti | Genre: Adult Fiction/YA | Publisher: Ali Ribelli Edizioni | Release date: April 21, 2018

Description: Until her dad died, Little considered herself a Californian. Now, thanks to half a letter, a symbol she can’t quite remember, and writer’s block, she finds herself back in Italy, the country of her birth. In a headlong rush to return to her beloved San Francisco, Little will journey throughout Italy, hoping to find the answers she needs to move on with her life so she need never look back. She’ll enlist the help of the woman who raised her, Sira, her father’s sister; but Sira has secrets she’s kept for decades, and Little underestimates the power of the country she fled years before.

In this powerful story of mixed cultures in a world trying to globalize, one girl’s struggle to leave her home behind will lead her back to the women in her family and the memories each of them has safeguarded through the generations. From war-torn Italy to the bel paese of today, All the Way to Italy is a tale for those in search of a balance between wanderlust and the necessity to come home, a reminder that although we may be fragments, we are never a lost cause.

To follow the tour and read reviews, please visit Flavia Brunetti's page on Italy Book Tours.

Buy the Book:

Amazon ~ Barnes and Noble ~ iTunes ~ Kobo

Add to Goodreads

About the Author:

Photo credit: Roberta Perrone

Born just outside of Rome, Flavia Brunetti grew up bouncing back and forth between Italy and California, eventually moving back to the Eternal City and confirming her lifelong commitment to real gelato. Flavia holds a Master of Arts degree in Government and Politics from St. John’s University and a Bachelor of Arts in Political Science from John Cabot University. Today she travels the world working for an international humanitarian organization and spends her free time writing and wandering around her beloved Roma in constant search of bookstores and the perfect espresso. You can find her city blog on Rome at whichwaytorome.com and her portfolio of published writing at flaviinrome.com.

Connect with Flavia: Website ~ Blog on Rome ~ Twitter ~ Facebook ~ Instagram

Enter the Giveaway! Two winners will get an ebook copy of All the Way to Italy plus a $20 Amazon.com gift card and one winner will get an ebook copy of All the way to Italy plus a $30 Amazon.com GC. Open internationally to wherever Amazon delivers, 3 winners total. Ends May 26, 2018. Click HERE to enter the Rafflecopter giveaway. Buona fortuna!

Blog Tour + Giveaway: Kiss Carlo by Adriana Trigiani

Title: Kiss Carlo by Adriana Trigiani | Category: Adult Fiction, 560 pages | Genre: Historical Fiction | Publisher: Harper Paperbacks | Release date: January 2018

Book Description:

From Adriana Trigiani, the beloved New York Times-bestselling author of The Shoemaker's Wife, comes an exhilarating epic novel of love, loyalty, and creativity-the story of an Italian-American family on the cusp of change.

It's 1949 and South Philadelphia bursts with opportunity during the post-war boom. The Palazzini Cab Company and Western Union Telegraph Office, owned and operated by Dominic Palazzini and his three sons, is flourishing: business is good, they're surrounded by sympathetic wives and daughters-in-law with grandchildren on the way. But a decades-long feud that split Dominic and his brother Mike and their once-close families sets the stage for a re-match.

Amidst the hoopla, the arrival of an urgent telegram from Italy upends the life of Nicky Castone (Dominic and his wife's orphaned nephew) who lives and works with his Uncle Dom and his family. Nicky decides, at 30, that he wants more-more than just a job driving Car #4 and more than his longtime fiancée Peachy DePino can offer. When he admits to his fiancée that he's been secretly moonlighting at the local Shakespeare theater company, Nicky finds himself drawn to the stage and to the determined Calla Borelli who inherited the enterprise from her father, Nicky must choose between the conventional life or new course and risk losing everything he has known.

From the dreamy mountaintop village of Roseto Valfortore in Italy, to the vibrant streets of South Philly, to the close-knit enclave of Roseto, Pennsylvania, to New York City during the birth of the golden age of television, Kiss Carlo is an absorbing, inter-generational story that celebrates the ties that bind, while staying true to oneself when all hope seems lost.

Told against the backdrop of some of Shakespeare's greatest comedies, this novel brims with romance as long buried secrets are revealed, mistaken identities are unmasked, scores are settled, broken hearts are mended and true love reigns. Trigiani's consummate storytelling skill and her trademark wit, along with a dazzling cast of characters will enthrall readers. Once again, the author has returned to her own family garden to create an unforgettable feast. Kiss Carlo is a jubilee, resplendent with hope, love, and the abiding power of la famiglia.

My Thoughts:

When I travel, I love to read a book based in the place where I'm going. I would have loved to have been in Valfortore, Italy, New York or even South Philly when I read Kiss Carlo. But since I couldn't be there, experiencing the trials of this wonderful Italian-American family, especially the charming but troubled Nicky, was a treat in itself. As an Italian-American myself, I can attest to the fact that the descriptions of the food, the family interactions and the personalities are so real you feel you know these people. I, for one, didn't want them to go on with their story without me when then book ended.

The best part about Trigiani's writing, imho, is her ability to create a vast array of characters with such deep emotions and quirky characteristics that you are completely drawn into their lives. From a mayor to a jilted girlfriend to a conflicted middle-aged man, Trigiani provides them all with pitch perfect personalities. They aren't stereotypes and they aren't so extreme that you can't reach them. They are just like you and me and they'll stick with you long after the end of the book. Kiss Carlo is another absorbing story from Trigiani about life, love and family...Italian style.

Buy the book:

Amazon ~ Barnes and Noble ~ HarperCollins

Books-a-Million ~ Indiebound ~ iBooks

Add to Goodreads

Watch the book trailer:

Meet the Author: 

Photo Credit: Tim Stephenson

Adriana Trigiani is the bestselling author of 17 books, which have been published in 36 countries around the world. She is a playwright, television writer/producer and filmmaker. She wrote and directed the film version of her novel Big Stone Gap, which was shot entirely on location in her Virginia hometown. She is co-founder of the Origin Project, an in-school writing program that serves more than a thousand students in Appalachia. She lives in Greenwich Village with her family.

Connect with the author: Website ~ Twitter ~ Facebook ~ Pinterest ~ Instagram

Giveaway! Ends Feb. 7th (US only)

CLICK HERE to enter the Rafflecopter giveaway and one winner will receive a paperback copy of Kiss Carlo. Good luck! 

As seen on...

Fodor's Top Hotels 2011

Fodor's just announced its Hotel Awards for 2011 featuring 100 properties around the world.  We especially love the categories, like Clubby Atmosphere and Casual Chic, making it easy to find a hotel that suits your specific tastes. Plus, we were thrilled to see some of our favorite hotels make the list.

21c Museum Hotel, Louisville, Kentucky
One of the top "Clubby Atmosphere" hotels, we love the art throughout the hotel, the great location and fabulous restaurant and bar, Proof on Main, right in the hotel.
Read more:  City Guide, Louisville, Kentucky

Citizen M, Amsterdam, The Netherlands
Great concept (an affordable design hotel), awesome amenities (king-size beds, free wi-fi, public iMacs) and thoughtful details (comfortable lobby, convenient cantina).
Read more: 2010 Trendiest Hotel in the World - CitizenM, Amsterdam

Villa d'Este, Lake Como, Italy
It's difficult to think of a better way to spend an afternoon than on the shore of Lake Como, sipping a Campari at the impeccable Villa d'Este. And if you are short on time, it's an easy day trip from Milan.

The Oberoi Udaivilas, Udaipur, Rajasthan, India
Between the setting, size and service, this hotel has it all and should be a mandatory stop for anyone visiting India, even if only for dinner at one of the wonderful on-site restaurants.

For the complete list of all 100 Fodor Hotels Awards, visit www.fodors.com.

Back to the Grind: 5 More Top Coffee Shops around the World

The quest for the perfect espresso continues as we build on our original top 5 list of the best coffee shops around the world with five more of the best places we've found for a great coffee.

Updated October 23, 2014

Pablo & Rusty's, Sydney 
161 Castlereagh Street, +61 (02) 9283 9543, www.pabloandrustys.com.au
We could not be any more excited that a fantastic roaster and coffee maker has come to Sydney CBD in a big way. Check out their beautiful cafe and have a fantastic coffee while you're there.

Victrola, Seattle
411 15th Avenue E (and other locations), www.victrolacoffee.com
Seattle takes its coffee seriously and has landed on the top of both of our charts.  Victrola is the latest and greatest in the land of serious coffee drinkers. It's dark, strong coffee, not for the faint of heart, but always a perfect cuppa joe.

Photo courtesy of Victrola Coffee

Princi, London
135 Wardour Street, +44 020 7478 8888, http://www.princi.co.uk/
Most importantly, the coffee is excellent, but if you look for a good pastry to go along with it, this is the place for you.  Finding a great coffee place in London took ages, but it was well worth the search.

Blue Bottle, San Francisco

Mint Plaza, 66 Mint Street, San Francisco, 510-653-3394, info@bluebottlecoffee.net
Blue Bottle is where I want to go every morning for a double latte and breakfast.  And I always end up walking out with a bag of anise cookies, some granola, another latte...

Photo from Blue Bottle Coffee

Pasticceria Bastianello, Milan
Via Borgogna, 5, http://www.bastianello.com/en
I'm always amazed that even the tiniest, least decorative caffes in Italy have excellent coffee.  Well, Pasticceria Bastianello is the opposite...ornate and formal but still, a perfect cappuccino.  And the pastries are almost too pretty to eat.

 
Best to our fellow coffee drinkers,
30-something Travel

Exploring Sicily – A 9-day driving tour

Although I was skeptical from the beginning, it is possible to drive around the entire island of Sicily in one week.  And in doing so, there is the opportunity to see the full variety of terrain, treasures and tastes that this island has to offer.

Our interest in Sicily began in a bar in New York. The wine bar, which is no longer open, served only Sicilian wines, salamis and cheeses, and in the few times we visited, we felt we had tried (and loved) everything Sicily had to offer.  So, when we were looking for a place for a one-week vacation in Europe, we jumped at the chance to go explore this Italian island.

Overall, Sicily isn't as rough and tough as it may sound with its Mafia history, but it does have an edge that makes you believe some of the stories you have heard could quite possibly be true.  We found we enjoyed the north-eastern part of the island the best and could have spent an extra day or two there versus Palermo on the western side.  And we definitely would have planned the trip later in the summer since mid-May was just a bit too early to swim.

 Itinerary

• Day 1: Arrive in Palermo - Landing with just enough time for dinner, we realized very quickly that not all Sicilian wines are good, but that's OK because we have the entire week ahead to figure it out.

• Day 2: Palermo - Sites often close over lunch or for the latter half of the day depending on the day, time of year or maybe just the staff's whims, so you need to plan some flexibility into sightseeing.  Lucky for us, we got the last tickets into the Palazzo dei Normanni (Norman Palace) and the Cappella Palatina (Palatine Chapel) before it closed for the day. Well worth it for the intricate mosaics in the chapel.

• Day 3: Marsala, with a quick stop at Segesta - The history of Sicily is fascinating because it has been conquered and controlled by everyone from the Greeks to Arabs, Romans to Normans and all have left their mark.  Segesta is one of the many temples that dot the landscape of Sicily and one of the best preserved, built in 430BC and still standing.

• Day 4: Marsala (AM), Drive to Agrigento - Marsala is a small seaside town famous for its namesake wines.  After a morning strolling through the old part of town, we headed to Agrigento in the South to see the famous Valley of the Temples.  Two large Greek temples, including the Temple of Concord, are the highlights as they are still standing intact since the 6th century AD. But our favorite part of Agrigento was the food at Spizzulio (see below).

• Day 5: Ragusa with a stop at the Villa Imperiale del Casale - Although a major diversion from the highway, and a seemingly popular stop for high school field trips, the mosaics on the floors of this 3 - 4c. villa are incredibly intact.  From women exercising to a variety of birds and animals, the site is an incredible collection of works which lead to its UNESCO World Heritage status.  It really isn't worth the time if you aren't a mosaic fan, but if you are, you won't be disappointed. More info on the history of Villa Imperiale del Casale and visiting hours here.  

• Day 6: Siracusa - Our trip kept getting better as we went along, the seaside town of Siracusa a very pleasant surprise.  Our hotel was awesome and the owners so interesting that we considered staying an extra night. (See Hotel Cavalieri below.) The popular tourist sites include a cave in the shape of an ear that echos when the school kids scream and an old battalion on the waterfront, but the city itself is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and beautiful.  And the atmosphere is young and alive, even at night, because of the schools in the town.

• Day 7: Siracusa (AM), Drive to Taormina - As much as we liked Siracusa, Taormina trumped it simply because of its natural beauty.  Half the town is on top of a cliff, the other half is at the bottom.  A funicular takes you from the base to the top, but stops running around 10PM so if you spend a long evening above, you may be walking hundreds of steps down in the dark (or taking a cab).  The tourist/pedestrian area is perfect for strolling, taste-testing gelato and window shopping.  But the Greek amphitheater is the highlight and well worth spending an hour just sitting and enjoying the stunning view.  And down below you will find beaches including the famous Isola Bella, with a narrow strip of sand running between the beach and the famous island.  It was completely surrounded by jellyfish when we visited in early May, but still a picturesque place to lay in the sun and take in our surroundings.  

• Day 8: Taormina (AM), Drive to Cefalu - While it was truly difficult to leave Taormina, we drove along the scenic Northern coast of Sicily to a small seaside resort town of Cefalu.  Unfortunately, our tiny Italian car couldn't make it all the way there on fumes, so we ended up meeting some nice locals who drove us into town and helped us get gas for our car.  That diversion left little time to enjoy the town unfortunately. 


• Day 9: Thanks to an erupting Icelandic volcano, our flight was canceled, leaving us time to enjoy a long lunch in front of the famous 10th century cathedral in Cefalu and a stroll along the coastline before heading to the airport in Palermo.  

Where to stay

Hotel Porta Felice (Palermo, Via Butera, 45 90133 Palermo, +39 091 617 56 78, info@hotelportafelice.it , http://www.hotelportafelice.it/en/home/) A bit off the beaten track, but a nice 4-star hotel with amenities rare for Sicily (like free internet) and a great rooftop terrace perfect for sipping wine at sunset.

Eremo della Giubiliana (near Ragusa, SP 25 per Marina di Ragusa, +39 0932 669119, http://www.eremodellagiubiliana.it/eng/index.html) An old convent converted into a boutique hotel, completely secluded from city life and quiet enough to enjoy a bike ride to the sea (bikes available at the hotel free of charge), an incredible brunch with homemade Sicilian orange marmalade that even people who don't like marmalade (like me) will love and a courtyard built for sipping wine or smoking a cigar.

Hotel Cavalieri (Siracusa, Via Malta, n. 42, GPS: N37°03.909' E015°17.270', +39 0931 483635, info@hotelcavalierisiracusa.it) This boutique hotel, noted for its design, is run by a charming couple who make sure that you are well taken care of, but behind the friendly facade are two expert architects and interior designers who have transformed an old building into a beautiful mix of old and new, modern and classic.  


Where to eat

Kursaal Kalh (21 Foro Umberto I, Palermo, 091 616 22 82, www.kursaalkalhesa.it/) - I recommend this place as much for the bar as the restaurant with a young atmosphere and an open, relaxing setting to sit and enjoy the people you are with.  The food was wonderful and moderately prices and the service was accomodating to English speakers.  After a number of bad meals in Palermo, I'll go back here immediately upon my return to Sicily.

Spizzulio (Via Panoramica Valle dei Templi, 23, 92100 Agrigento, 0922 20712, www.spizzulio.it/engl.html)
This is one of those places in Italy you always hear about - great food, traditional but simple cooking and a welcoming atmosphere - but never find.  Carmello is a charming host who speaks an incredible number of languages (Italian, of course, Spanish to the table next to us, French and English to us and who knows how many others) and actually recommended we skip the main dish when we got a bit carried away with appetizers and wine.

Buon appetito!

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